Bass Fishing Rigs

The Last entry in the Bass Fishing series

A couple of popular rigs are the Drop Shot and the Wacky Rigs which are essentially the same, except for a difference in attaching the plastics. Two other fishing rig set ups, are the 'Texas' and 'Carolina' Rig. All are for bait fishing with soft plastics.

Drop Shot Rig 

This is tied right on the fishing line itself. To tie this rig, I stretch out about 18 inches or so of my line, maybe even an inch or so more. Right at 18 inches, I will double the line over on itself. Then, using a 1, or a 1/0 hook, I slide my folded over line through the eyelet of the hook and then tie the loop back over the line, don't worry about the excess or about cinching it tight just yet. Once my loop that I ran through my hook's eyelet has been tied around the line above the hook, I slip the excess loop over the hook and now  cinch the entire thing up tight. The hook is now suspended roughly 18 inches from the end of my line. I tie on a drop shot weight on the end of that line (18 inches below my hook)  and the rig is ready to fish except for my plastic. I insert through the nose of the plastic worm I've chosen and this allows my worm to swivel back and forth to entice a Bass.

Wacky Rig 

The set up is really not wacky, as it is made up exactly like the Drop Shot Rig. It's just in how I attach the plastic to the hook for a completely different presentation. After I've made up my rig, instead of hooking my plastic through the nose for that 'swimming' action, I hook it through the middle of the worm. This creates a completely different presentation, because the worm no longer looks as if it's swimming, but flopping a bit as the rig falls to the bottom. I fish this set up, either as it's going down or coming back up, depending upon 'how' I'm generating strikes.

Texas Rig 

I start by sliding a slip sinker (the size depends upon the lure I'm going to use) just by inserting the line through the small end first and sliding it on the line. Then, using a 2 or 3/0 hook and tie it on the line using the same method as the Drop Shot Rig. It's a really simple and secure knot. For the plastic, I insert it about a 1/4 inch back of the nose and then shove that all of the way up the hook. Once I reach the end of the hook, I simply bury the tip of the hook in my plastic, creating a weed guard for my hook. It affords me the ability to drag through heavy cover without snagging.

Carolina Rig 

I use an egg sinker for this one, a bead a swivel and a 12-18 long leader. I start by sliding the egg sinker on first then the bead (as a shock insulator for the swivel) and then I tie on a swivel. Now the bead helps absorb some of the shock from the weight sliding back and forth. All of the knots I tie are the same as they are strong and reliable. The knot is called a 'Palomar Knot' and it works great. At this stage, I'm half done as I now have to tie on a hook. I use a good 6 or 8 lb test leader and I tie about 12-18 inches of it to my swivel. Now I'm ready for a hook, and once again I use a 2 or 3/0 hook tying it on using the same method I've talked about. I hook my plastic on exactly like I talked about with the Texas Rig making it a weed guard style hook. Now, when I toss my line over the side, the egg sinker slides up and down and my plastic has a resistance free presentation when a Bass strikes.

That's it, the four set ups for plastics.Thanks for reading and I'll see you on the trail--

Bass Fishing in the Spring - Mighty Bite Lures are my choice

What to use in the spring

Everyone has their favorite rig for catching Bass, and I'm no different. I like to put something in the water, that will number one, xxcite the fish. Number two, it will excite them enough to trigger the 'strike' mode. Some folks prefer plastics. Truth is, what you use is dependent upon the water, it's clarity, it's temperature and it's depth, time of day, etc.

If it's muddy and you're fishing in the daylight? Use brightly colored baits (we'll get to what 'kind' of bait in a bit) but if the water is clear, you can fish the clock around. I fish from midnight to dawn. (the time of moonrise and moon set) In the spring, Bass will move to the shallower waters to feed, mostly on sunfish and on crawfish especially. Really, they are opportunistic fish and will strike about anything if they are hungry and will feed in shallow waters. 

I'm always alert for the spawning beds or areas with a lot of cover and fish in there with a top bait. With the spawn over, the Bass will begin feeding heavily on any bait fish. Take advantage.

 
To catch the big ones, I have learned that the bigger and clunkier the bait? The better the Bass will strike. (I found this out during a Striped Bass derby in Arizona) Bass will strike at most anything that resembles food to them. One rig I use for this is the Mighty Bite Lure. Fish work off five main senses. Sight, (looks like a wounded bait fish) sound (the rattles) smell, (scent sticks) feel (the lure even feels like a bait fish) and taste (again, the scent stick will draw them in)

It's a complete system that's proven to be effective on most any predatory fish, Bass included. The lure set up comes complete with everything I need, including various sizes and many interchangeable parts. What that means to you and I, is that I can change the scent stick or swim fins to create more or less scent being left in the water and what type of movement I want from my lure.

The Mighty Bite kit even contains hooks with weed guards for thick cover or for fishing on, near or along the bottom.

The lure itself looks and acts like a wounded bait fish (easy prey for a 'dinner minded' Bass) I have to say, that the overall setup can drive the fish crazy.  

If fished right for the conditions, this lure will generate that DNA triggered  'strike mode'  I spoke of earlier. Bass strike hard on this lure.

It's a complete system with simple easy to read instructions on how to use.......and fish the Mighty Bite System.

Next up:  The Texas and Carolina Bass rigs. Which is best and how to set each one up.

Bass Fishing in Texas

When to fish

As a point of discussion,  to give you an idea of the size of the state of Texas. When measured in miles: (from the state of Oklahoma on the north to the border with Mexico on the south), is 801 miles. Now, the mileage across the state (From New Mexico on the west to Louisiana on the east) is 773. 

All of this means that Texas has a land and water mass of 267,277 square miles. That translates into Texas occupying right at 7 percent of the total land and water mass in the United States!  I'm not telling you this for bragging rights, just to describe it's vast size in comparison to the number of lakes available for Bass fishing.

To be honest, there are just too many lakes in Texas to pick one over the other, so with that in mind, we're going to talk specifically of how to fish when fishing these lakes.

 
Bass are kind of just like people, they don't like it when it's hot. So Bass try to fool us by leaving their normal spots, when the water temps are above 85.  They will wait until after dark to feed. 

In fact many folks consider night fishing as the only way to catch Bass in the summertime. Believing since Bass prefer water temps around 65 or 70 degrees that fishing is normally best in the spring (after the spawn when bait fish begin to school) and fall (when the water temps fall and shad begin to migrate). Simple fact is, you can start night fishing at most any time. Even as early as January or as late as August in Texas.

Again, the spring and fall offer a good time to Bass fish because of the water temps. But really, it's the bait fish that draw Bass out, regardless of the time of year.  While it's true that the spring and the fall offer the best fishing, it doesn't mean that's the only Bass fishing times. It just means it's the "easiest."

If you are fishing for Bass in the summer, there are some simple things to do to ensure your success. Like finding the deepest parts of the lake. As usual, look for the cover on the bottom, trees, rocks, etc. Great spots for the big boys to hide. Fish later in the day or even after dark and most of all, have an assortment of baits and lures to use for night fishing.

Next up: We are going to talk about some of those lures and setups.

Bass Fishing and Mighty Bite Lures

BASS

Let's talk Bass Fishing. First and foremost, as with any fish, Bass are dependent upon water to survive, but secondly, that water must contain a food source, ie: Bait fish of some kind, snakes, crawfish, and even small frogs and lizards. Texas is loaded with lakes just like that. When you finish this lens, you should be able to go head to head with the best Bass fisherman out there.

I'm using Texas to start with, because some of my best days Bass fishing have been in Texas. I'll take a second to go into a little detail. Texas has 4,959 square miles of inland lakes, whereas Minnesota (Land of a Thousand Lakes) has 4,780 square miles of lakes ranking that state as number 2, followed by Florida at number 3 with 4,683 square miles of lakes. I tell you this to show you some of what makes Texas one of the best, bass fishing states in the country. Some of my best days Bass fishing have been in Texas.

 
In this blog, I'll get into what times of the year and how to fish for Bass. I'll describe some popular Bass fishing rigs and how to make one of your own if you choose not to buy them. 

I'll talk about plastic baits, lures to use, how and why and generally, how to catch Bass year round. But most of all, I will tell you about the Mighty Bite Fishing System and why I use it when I am Bass fishing. 

I like the Storm WildEye Live Minnow Lure for trout and I like the Mighty Bite for bass fishing.

Next up: Bass Fishing in Texas

Catch and Release - Another side of Trout Fishing

Trout Fishing

What to do if you decide to release your fish

OK....if you've followed this blog, you know you are near the end of your learning curve. In fact, this is the final entry in the trout fishing series. This entry delves into what to do once you've decided to catch and release. Catch and release is a great idea to help preserve the wild trout populations. Wild trout can always use a hand for their survival.

With that said, let's get to it. What to do with a fish once you have caught it and want to release it.

 

First, trout are kind of like ducks, in that they have a protective coating. Yep, that sliminess on their skin? It's actually there for a reason. This coating can be damaged by handling the fish too much. Touching them removes this protective coating in that spot. In fact, a hand touching their skin will actually 'burn' the fish. 'Catch and release' is a great idea and fairly simple to do. It just takes a bit understanding of some easy but important things to do and not do.

First, I wet my hands before even attempting to remove the hook. Second, if the hook is visible, I try to keep the fish in the water as I grasp the hook with my needle nose pliers. I try to do so at the curve of the hook as that affords me better control of the hook. I then gently remove the hook from the fish by pulling in the opposite direction of how the hook went in.

If the fish has swallowed the hook (which is more common in aggressive of hungry fish) and I cannot reach it, I cut the line. Note the picture on the left....I show this picture, because if the fish jumps from his hand after cutting the line or removing the hook? It can damage that fish's buoyancy bladder and maybe even kill the fish. Remove the hook with 'the fish still in the water.'


Now, I know this seems hard to do with a wiggling fish, but when necessary, I find that using a net helps me control the fish while I cut the line or remove the hook.

I try to remove the hook or cut the line without tugging on it very much. Pulling on the line can tear the insides of my fish and it's chances of survival drop way down.

I always keep the fish in the water the entire time for it's own protection. Also (and this is very important) I DO NOT squeeze the fish. (like you see the fellow doing in the picture, holding two fish in one hand) The reason is that if I do, it may cause internal bleeding which in turn leads to a really painful death for that fish.

Once I have the hook out or the line cut, I hold the fish gently upright until it regains it's balance. Once it has, I guide it until it is facing upstream. When the fish is ready? it will just swim away on it's own. I NEVER toss the fish back in or drop it from the sides of the boat or a bank. Doing that, (as I said above) I could damage or burst it's internal air bladders. A fish uses these internal bladders to control it's underwater buoyancy, so if I am doing the above from a boat or a stream bank, I let the fish swim out of the net on it's own.

 
Once the fish swims away, I keep an eye on it for a minute or so to be sure it is fine and then return to my fishing. Some fish recover slower than others, but most often, if I have done my job right? With a flip of their tail, they dive down and are gone anyway.

Well, that's all there is to it. What do you think? Are you ready to get out there and catch some fish? I say yes.

You have learned the basics of how to fish, where to fish and why. I pronounce you now fishermen and women.  I charge you to go out with your new found knowledge and I say to one and all: "Good luck, now go catch some trout."

Thanks for reading and I'll see you on the trail--

Trout Fishing Success!

You've caught your fish

Time to make a decision

If I intend to keep my fish I have just caught, I first need to know if it is legal size and that I have the correct stamp or tag for it. I consult my regulations again if I've forgotten. If my fish is legal size, then there are a couple of things to do to prepare my fish.


If it is a smaller fish, say 7 or 8 inches in length, (these are the perfect size to pan fry whole) I simply clean these fish, rinse them thoroughly inside and out and either place it in my creel or attach it to my fish stringer.

If you are not familiar with how to clean a fish, it is pretty simple. 

I hold the fish upside down (belly facing up) and look for the small hole on it's belly near the tail. Using a small thin bladed knife, I insert my knife here and cut very shallowly from that point forward, up the belly to the gills. 

Once I have the fish open, I simply remove the insides and rinse thoroughly, making sure to look for any blood pockets along the spine or anywhere on the meat. Once I'm satisfied the fish is clean, l place it in my creel or on my stringer. If the fish is longer than say 11 or 12 inches, I'm going to fillet these.

 

To fillet my fish, I clean it out exactly the same as any other fish and again place in my creel or on my stringer. I do the filleting once I am done fishing. 

To fillet, I lay the fish on it's side on a hard surface like a cutting board. Holding the head with one hand, I lay my knife blade nearly flat against the side of the fish, right behind the gills. 

Slowly I slice into the fish until I feel the blade touch bone. Pulling the blade back ever so slightly, I now semi flatten the blade (almost sideways with the fish) with the blade facing the tail.  With one sweeping motion I slice the side of the fish from the gills to the tail, removing my fillet. 

If I've done it correctly, I should have a nice piece of fish in one hand and now see a very clean row of bones from the gills to the tail. I turn the fish over and repeat for the other side. 

The first couple of times you try this, will not look so good, and you will leave some meat on the fish or include some of the bones with your fresh fillet but I promise, you will get better. Look at it this way....if your first cut takes some bones along.....the fillet from the other side of the fish is going to have far fewer bones. 

A point to note: If I do shave off some of the bones, I am careful to remove them before packaging my fillets.

Now, get these fillets on ice if you are not going to cook them right then. That's all there is to it.

Next up: Catch and release

Setting the Hook - Don't let that Trout get away!

Setting the Hook

Takes some finesse

Once you are for sure that you have a fish on the line ( the rod tip bent over to the water surface is a good indicator), you now have to set the hook. 

Setting the hook as I said takes some finesse. Try it too early (while the fish is still nibbling but does not have the hook in his mouth) and I jerk it away and the fish swims off. Do it too late (after he has taken the bait) and I risk the chance of ripping the hook right out of their mouth.

So, to be done right, here's what I do.  When I feel the first nibbling, I wait. I am waiting for a kind of solid tug. If I wait until I feel a this tug, then maybe even a second or third one, O am pretty much guaranteed the bait is in the fish's mouth. At that point, I quickly set the hook by snapping my rod upwards. Not so hard that I chance ripping the hook free, but just hard enough to 'set' the hook firmly in the fish's mouth.

Once I know my fish is hooked, I reel in slowly, keeping my rod tip higher than my head. The reason is, lowering the tip, creates slack in the line and the fish can sometime shake themselves off. I keep tension on the line with a combination of using the pole's natural flexing and keeping the rod tip up until I have reeled the fish in. Never be in a hurry, part of fishing is feeling the fight of these fish, as they love to fight and jump.

 

As my fish gets close to me (if I am in the stream), or on the shore I simply slide my net under the fish and bring it in.

Next up: Catch and release or keep your fish? I will cover both scenarios

Spring Bass Fishing - Mighty Bite Lures are my choice

What to use in the spring

Everyone has their favorite rig for catching Bass, and I am no different. I like to put something in the water, that will number one? Excite the fish. Number two, it will excite them well enough that it triggers the 'strike' mode. Some folks prefer plastics. Truth is, what you fish with and how, is dependent upon the water clarity, temperature and even the time of day.

If it's muddy, I  fish in the daylight and use brightly colored baits (we'll get to what 'kind' in a bit) but if the water is clear, (regardless of the air and water temperature) I fish from midnight to dawn. (the time of moonrise and moon set) 

The spring is the time when the Bass will move to the shallower waters to feed. There's plenty of bait fish available,  mostly in the form of sunfish or crawfish.  The big Bass will feed in these shallow waters, but dependent upon water temperature it may be after dark. That's why I fish from midnight to dawn. So be alert as you look for places to fish, for places like spawning beds or areas with a lot of cover. That's an excellent time to fish with top baits. The reason I fish with top bait in the shallows is: with the spawn over, the Bass are feeding heavily right now in those areas.

To catch the big ones, I have learned that the bigger and clunkier the bait? The better the Bass will strike. (I learned this in a Striper Bass derby in Arizona) Bass will strike at most anything that resembles food. One rig I use for this is the Might Bite Fishing System lure. I can use it for top bait, rig it on a Texas or Carolina jig or just plain jig it on it's own

I can get away with using this lure these many different ways because fish work off five main senses. Sight, (the lure looks like a wounded bait fish) sound (the rattles I can place in the lure) smell, (scent sticks I will use) feel (the lure even feels like a bait fish) and taste (again, the scent stick will draw them in)

It's a complete system that's proven to be effective on most any predatory fish, Bass included. The lure set up comes complete with interchangeable scent sticks and swim fins. What that means to you and I, is that I can change the scent stick or swim fins to create more or less scent being left in the water and what type of movement I want from my lure. Thus, the different ways I can fish just one lure.

Next up:  the Texas and Carolina Bass rigs. Which is best and how to set each one up.

Trout Fishing - Casting the line

Casting

It's an art that can be learned

 
Glad you're here today, as all of the information aside, if you don't know how to cast? You are just making your job hard and the fish smarter than they already are. So sit back and read along.

Casting sounds like it should be so easy, and if you have a huge flat lake to cast into or maybe you are on a flat bank with no trees or brush around you, you might be right. But the truth is, most people have a really difficult time casting. 

Starting with the basics, I recommend an open face reel for one simple reason. It's less likely to tangle if I am fishing with jigs, spoons or lures. I don't use a heavy line either, 4-8 lb. line is sufficient.

So, I will recap from the previous blog....my bait is securely on the end of the hook, I am in position to cast. What to do, what to do? First, as I described earlier, when fishing upstream I always cast upstream and allow the bait to float towards where I think or know the fish are. To do this is easy but takes some practice. 

So here are some pointers: Remember, its also best to try this at home BEFORE you go fishing by using that small rubber weight in the end of your line, just to practice.

I imagine the the stream as the face of a clock. Dead ahead of me is the 12 'O clock position. Depending upon where I want my bait to go, I cast to the 11:00 position or the 1:00 position. (to the right or the left of me and the hole or pocket or pool I am aiming to drift into). I don't necessarily have to cast very far upstream, but I have to be able to put my hook (bait or lure) where I want it and that takes practice.

I now have the placement in my head of where I want my hook to land. I bring the tip of the rod up in the air (keeping in mind any obstructions around or behind me)  I open the bail on the reel (to allow the line to spool out during my cast)  but I hold that line (which is now free), with my thumb so that it does not spool out just yet. When I am ready, I quickly flip the rod tip over my head towards to stream. I release the line with my thumb when the pole is past the top of the arc. (the arc being the direction the rod travels from behind me to the front of me). As the pole travels over my head and forward, I allow my forward motion of my rod, to stop when it is level with the surface of the water or maybe slightly less than level. Learning which is more comfortable, (level with the stream or lower) is an art.

My lure or bait will now travel easily out to the distance my cast allows and hopefully plop in the water where I want it, barring any wind. 

Once my bait or lure are in the water, I close the bail on the reel and get ready to fish. At this point, it is easy to get anxious, but instead, I just let my bait or lure drift while keeping my rod tip level. 

As my bait or lure passes me and the slack in the line begins to disappear, I feel a slight tug as the line begins to tighten up. ( My lure is now against the current as opposed to "with" the current). Those small pulls on my rod can mean any number of things: Possibly a fish is nibbling on my bait /lure, or it could just be bouncing along the bottom. I never worry though, because if it is a trout? The rod tip will try to be pulled into the water and we all know what "fish on" means.

Next up: Setting the hook and landing that fish

If you are going fishing, you need tackle...

Buy the right tackle.

I've covered licenses, fishing creel or fish stringer, rods and reels, lures, live bait and the basics of how and where to fish a small stream. (By far the best days of trout fishing I have ever experienced have been in small streams) So let's get down to the tackle.

I always recommend using light tackle when trout fishing  Light tackle believe it or not is preferred for stream or river trout fishing  (because trout have excellent eyesight) and a lightweight rod. My rod is in the 6 to 8 lb, range and is more than sufficient. (Most poles will have that printed right on the side)  Now, if you have listened along here, you will have already rigged your rod and line BEFORE leaving your house, right?

There is nothing more frustrating than to arrive at your fishing spot and have to rig your line while watching  helplessly as fish jump all around you. Alright, 'nuff said. let's talk about weights.

I use weight with live bait when I maybe want it to drop in a pool or something before the current carries it downstream. If the fish are lazy, they won't bite unless the bait is darned near in front of them, so I want every advantage and that's why I use the weight. I want my bait right in front of the fish.

Depending upon how fast a stream or river is running, I use split shot of varying weights. To do this, I carry a small plastic container of split shot and pick one I think is appropriate (I'm sure you've seen them in the fishing departments) I also carry a small pair of needle nose pliers to crimp those weights on and off my line. I crimp them on the line just hard enough to hold them in place, but not hard enough so that I cannot adjust them for changing water depths as I fish. With the split shot, I am able to control how fast my bait will drift. Less weight more drift, more weight less drift. Make sense? 

When I place the weight on my line, I do so anywhere from a foot and a half to two feet above my hook and that can vary with stream depth. But the average small stream is only 2-3 feet deep at the most anyway so pay attention to where you place them. Now with the weight on the line, I am ready to put my live bait choice on my hook.

If I'm going to be using worms to start, there are some tricks to know about. (I touched on this earlier when I spoke of cutting the worms up). There are two schools of thought on baiting. One is to cut the worms up just enough to cover the entire hook.

The other train of thought,  (my chosen method)  is to slide the worm on the hook by inserting it through the end of the worm and sliding it up the hook until you reach the end of the hook. (I even go maybe even a teeny bit more). 

I then push the hook out of the side of the worm, just enough so that I see the hook. All that's left for me to do, is cut the rest of the worm off about a half inch or so from where the hook is exposed. This then allows my worm to "wiggle" to help attract fish.

Next up. Proper casting techniques.

Trout Fishing Using Live Bait

When to use what and why (cont.)

Fly fishing is done with artificial flies that look like insects, but that is another story. 

 Insects used as bait when casting, can be very beneficial. Personally, I've never had much luck using any live insects other grasshopper's. 

Grasshopper's make a good choice, as they will wiggle even on my hook and THAT will entice the fish. But hooking them through the abdomen is the trick, as it allows their natural movement. But, I only use them if it is windy. The reasoning is simple. Often when the wind blows it will blow the grasshoppers and other insects onto the water. Think about it, what fish isn't going to take advantage of a free meal? I use every skill available as you can see.  Who knows? Maybe in your area, "Grasshopper's" will be the magic bullet for you to catch fish!

Finally, I want to cover Egg Sacks. I save this section for last,  because I feel that they are perhaps the best way to catch trout during spawning season. I am sure you have heard people who recommend using eggs when fishing for trout during spawning season, and they would be partially right. The most common one is a salmon egg. But I find, that single, mature, salmon or fish eggs are kind of large for our purposes here. Fish eggs used in "Egg Sacks" are much smaller and sold in quantities of 10-15 eggs per sack. An excellent number for what I'm talking about today. The reason for using egg sacks is because trout will often ignore other types of baits and lures during the spawning season and will eat their eggs. (yes they eat their young.)

These egg sacks are sold in most bait and tackle shops. However,if the tackle shop doesn't have them already bundled? I bundle a dozen or so myself. When I buy the eggs, I also purchase something called 'spawn netting.' (I don't need much and it's not very expensive at all) I place about a dozen of the cured eggs into the spawn netting then tie it off. Just like that....I'm ready to attach the bundle to my hook. I take extra care though as I don't want to burst any of the eggs in either putting them in the bag, tying the bag shut or attaching it to my hook. 

Once I have the sack on my hook, I lightly cast it into the water and let it drift to the bottom on it's own. Letting it drift on it's own will imitate the natural grouping of eggs laid by a trout. I'm also prepared if I'm fishing in waters with steelhead or salmon are, as they too will strike the egg sack.

As always, I thank you for reading. Stay safe out there and I'll see you on the trail--

Trout Fishing Using Live Bait

When to use what and why.

OK....I've talked about lures, time to talk about live bait. Live bait has always been considered a more natural alternative to lures. I guess because worms and insects were around before lures.

But, here is something most people don't know. I can combine the use of live bait and lures. I'll get to that later. Just remember, the smaller the fish, the smaller the bait to use.

As an example, "Red Wigglers" or "Composting Worms" make good bait for smaller mouth fish. Inasmuch as they are a small bait themselves, they are usually sold in three or four dozen quantities.

The "basic" live bait for trout though is the good old earthworm or night crawler. Being much larger, I will cut them to size.

Grasshoppers also work well. I insert the hook right through their abdomen so they wiggle can still wiggle. 'Wiggling' bait helps attract fish. The more wiggling the more my grasshopper will be noticed.

Speaking of wiggling bait....when I talk about trout and what they will strike? Brook Trout will strike the darker end of the worm most often, while Rainbow prefer the lighter end. But Brown trout don't care or seem to have a preference at all. They will strike either end of a worm in spite of it's color presentation. 

One small point....when I cut these worms? I use the smaller pieces to disguise my hook by sliding them "end on," on my hook. If I don't, trout WILL see the hook and quite possibly pass up that meal. I even use worms on my lures sometimes (I'll talk more about that later) Trout do indeed have great eyesight.
 

Another great bait is the common garden slug. I know what you're thinking right about now....eeeewwwww those things are icky and slimy! While that's true, they still make an excellent early morning bait. Another plus....they WILL stay on your hook when other baits may slide off. Just a thought, just a thought.

Next up: More Live bait and their uses.

Fishing Lures Part 2

Understanding trout first will enhance your success

To understand "where" to fish for them means you must understand trout. Trout convert oxygen into energy for their bodies. If you understand this, then you can understand where to fish for them. So start with the simple point...oxygen.

For this part, you want to look for areas that contain high levels of oxygen. What are those areas? They are where the current feeds into pools or even deep water. Now, that doesn't always guarantee trout are there, just that it is a likely spot to start from. Anyplace where the water has been tumbled or mixed up is a good place to start. Trout have excellent eyesight and keen bodily senses, so they can feel your presence even before you are there. Just standing in the water is an alert. Now that you have a basic idea of ­where you'll be fishing, we will move to lures. 

Lures are meant to imitate the bait fish in the area you are fishing. Earlier, we talked about lures and what they are made of, now is the time you might want to listen up. What it is made of is not nearly as important as if it resembles the bait fish of the area.

Arguably, if you have ever been in a fishing store or even a big box retailer, you have found yourself stunned and held frozen by the vast numbers of choices. Let me see if I can sort some of that out for you. First, what is the bait fish of the area you are going to? Don't know? Grab a fishing guide book from the area you intend to fish and read up. For me personally, I like Storm Wildeye Fishing Lures, but I will talk about that more later. 

For example, if the bait fish is silver in color, you look for a silver blade lure or bait fish lure and so forth. But remember..... one or two different styles won't do, choose a variety to take, just don't go overboard. That sounds like a confusing statement doesn't it? "Find the color of the bait fish in the area, but buy a variety of lures." It's not confusing at all.

The biggest reason you want a variety, is because the fishing conditions may change during the day, or even before you get to the lake or river. If that happens you may find yourself swapping lures several times before you find the right one. Sunlight conditions can vary, weather can vary, current speed and water clarity can change, so it only makes sense to be prepared.

Next up: Live Bait and when to use it

Fishing Lures

What to use and why

So.....you don't know the difference between a lure and live bait.  When you finish this post, you will. We'll start with  fishing lures: The 'explanation' of what lures are, is quite simply, something man made that appear to look like fish prey. There are a variety of things they are made from, but choices of such will come later. Right now all you need to know is that they are "artificial," trust me on this part. 

Live bait on the other hand, is the fish's natural prey. You know what I am talking about, worms, insects, small fish and even fish eggs. These are then attached to the hook to draw your fish in. What to use and why will be explained., so ­before you race out and just buy anything, it's time to learn the "type" of bait or lure you will need.

Agreeably, most everyone has their tried and true method for "their" fishing hole or for fishing for the type of fish they like. Trust me, I am no different. But understanding fish makes the type of lure or live bait used, a matter of interpretation.

For instance, did you know that native fish (or wild natural fish) tend to strike on different baits than "planted" fish, maybe better known as hatchery raised fish. These fish are planted each spring by the Fish and Game department. (or whatever the name is of the department that provides the fish stocking for your state).

In my mind, trout are the most beautiful of all freshwater fish that can be caught. They are found in some great natural settings, man made settings and some animal created settings that nature has to offer. To understand how to catch them, let's make it easy to understand. 

Trout respond to a wide variety of baits, depending upon  what the water temperature is, whether they are hungry or not, if they are spawning or even if it's night or day. You just need to know the what's, why's, when's and where's and you can find yourself pulling in the fish when no one around you is. 

Next up: Fishing lures and their uses

Fishing Tips and Where to Fish

The places I fish when fish are actively feeding

When trout are actively feeding, I fish for them in three places in a stream. The Pocket, The Pool and The Run

The Pocket
When I'm fishing in pocket water, (a 'Pocket' is  is a small area located in the rapids) It's easy to spot, as it's usually the calm water located behind a boulder or tree or something in the water's path.  I target that area right behind the rock or tree or whatever it is, because trout love areas like this. They are lazy feeders for the most part and the pocket provides shelter. It's that 'Holding Spot' I mention sometimes. Trout try to not work so hard for a meal.
So....I cast my bait upstream, (but inline with the current), thus allowing my bait to drift along the edge of the slack water. No bites? I cast back upstream and drift the other side. After I have worked both sides, whether I have pulled a fish or not, I  work my way into the pool area.

The Pool

I usually fish at the lead or tail edge of a pool. What is a pool you ask? Well, it's any area of the stream where the water is slower and deeper than the rest. The leading edge is where the ripples feed into it and the trailing edge is where the ripples begin again. Anything in between is "The Pool."

If I plan to fish a pool, I clip a couple ounces of weight on my line to get my bait down. Now to get my bait into the leading edge of the pool, I cast upstream (inline with the current) and allow the bait to be carried into the pool by the current.

I fish the tail of the pool a wee bit differently though. To fish the trailing edge requires more finesse. Since the tail end or trailing edge is shallower, it requires me to use a little more stealth to catch fish. So, I cast  into the middle of the pool and allow my bait to drift into and through the tail section.  By starting in the middle of the pool, your bait has less time to drop and you are less likely to get hung up on snags.

If you haven't mastered casting yet, one trick I have learned, is to use half the weight necessary and sort of drift my bait through the entire pool, just in case there is anything on the bottom. Fish tend to hold up around sunken logs and rocks in a pool and I like to work these areas over too before heading for the run.

The Run
I like to fish runs with a good lure or spoon. In case you don't know what a run is, a run is an area where the stream flow narrows. This can be caused by a variety of reasons, but mainly it's caused by the features on the bottom of the stream, or by the the stream banks.               
It's normally deeper than rapids, but not as deep as a pool. I still drift my bait through the run. The tough part, is learning how much weight to put on my lure to be able to get a good drift. One trick I use, is to use a bobber to aid me. I find that fish will often hold near any structure in the run, so the bobber is 'my advantage.'.

Remember, in all three of these spots, you are only going to get one, maybe two passes before you move on. If by the second pass and you haven't even gotten a nibble? Move on, the fish already have. 

Well, that's it for today, thanks for the read and remember...Stay safe out there and I'll see you on the trail.

Trout Fishing Tips

Insider tips

When fishing for trout in streams, as I said before, I always work my way upstream (against the current) first. Why you ask? Simple. Trout are wily and you must be craftier to outsmart them. I use this technique for easily spooked fish. Trout face into the current when laying up in a pool or slack water of any kind.  The reason for this is that they are lazy feeder's. They look for any type of food coming down the stream. I learned this trick one summer when my job was counting fish for the Fish and Wildlife Department.  

As I would work my way along the streams, fish would scatter, making my job all the harder. An old guide I met, told me that my shadow across the water was alerting fish to my presence. That if I wanted to trick them, I could do so by being on the opposite bank from the sun. That way the sun was in my face, putting my shadow behind me rather than across the stream. I could come up to the fish and easily count them. From then on, my fish counting became easier and I apply the same technique when fishing.

To this day, I wear camouflage clothing. If you don't have any, don't worry, you don't have to go out and buy any. Just wear "natural colors," nothing bright of any kind in clothing or hats. It just makes sense to gain any advantage. 

When I am in the water, I move slowly upstream or down. I try to disturb the water as little as possible. Again, the fish are sensitive to movement, sound and water pressure changes from our presence in the stream.

If you recall my earlier short story about fishing for Brown's in Eastern Oregon? Well, they are a fish that are easily spooked. Remember the simple trick I used, walk on the side of the stream with the sun in your face so that you leave no shadow across the water? It works.
 

I wear Polarized glasses when wading and for seeing fish in their holding areas. When I fish upstream I start by using a fast bait like a spinner or a competitive bait fish lure. The Storm-Wild-Eye-Minnow lure works great for this. But the real reason I use faster baits and lures, is because it allows me to cover a lot of water quickly and to catch the most aggressive fish first.

Depending upon the terrain and time of day, I will fish upstream for about an hour or even an hour and a half, no more. The reason is simple. If I stay longer than that, I will be forced to wade across the stream when the sun direction changes. Thus, once again alerting the fish to my presence. At any rate, when I turn around and go back downstream, I change bait and tactics. 

For the return trip, I slow down, to go after those fish I missed. I use baits like a worm or a small jig or even my Storm-Wild-Eye-Minnow lure. I find that slower baits work well for those fish I spooked on my first pass upstream. Now, you're probably asking how the Storm Minnow can be used both upstream and down? 

It's all in how you present the lure. Going upstream, you are casting upstream quickly into a pool and letting the bait drift through. Looking only for the really hungry or aggressive fish. But, when going back down stream, you are in control of the current and drift speed. Take your time to go over the pools a bit slower this time. You will need no weights, as you can control the sinking or the rising of your bait or lure, by tugging or not tugging against the current 

Using these techniques and tricks will pull those lazy fish out of a hole when you normally might miss them. They have had time to settle down since your first pass, and are more likely alert for slow moving or opportune food coming their way. Trust me, it works every time if done correctly.

Tomorrow, a brief description of some of the common terms you will hear or places you will fish in and how to fish them.